I noticed that it is only half of the casing because it dead ends into another wall. We have this same issue coming up for us. Remodelaholic is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.
Please see our full disclosure here. New Monogram Planter Letters Added! Pinterest Facebook Twitter. It can be. I'll show you how. Comments Definitely love our pocket doors, but found out the hard way that all pocket door latches are not equal.
Leave a Reply Cancel reply We love hearing from fellow Remodelaholics, so let us know what you like about this and leave any questions below in the comments. Pocket doors are a great way to reclaim space from the swing of a traditional existing door. That space must be free of studs, wires, pipes, or duct work. Not all walls are made equal.
Some walls are simply partitions between rooms. The surest way to know if a wall is load bearing is to bring in a structural engineer to check. Before talking to an engineer, however, there are a few signs to look for. The first is the direction of the floor and ceiling joists in your attic and basement. Another sign is if there is additional support below that wall. Are there columns or beams in the basement supporting that wall? Do not try to demolish and rebuild a structural wall yourself.
Instead, bring in a professional who understands how to support and rebuild a structural wall that can accept a pocket door. While the specifics will depend on which pocket door frame you wind up purchasing, most pocket doors require a few inches more than double the width of the door opening. So, for a inch door, plan about 64 inches of wall space. Mark the size of the proposed opening on your wall, and then use a stud finder to identify all of the studs inside that opening.
Also find the next stud outside of that opening. They carry wires and pipes to bring power and water throughout your house. Most walls will at least have electrical wires in them.
One way to find those wires and pipes is with a stud finder and wall scanner. If it is load bearing, you'll need a new header and a means of temporary support while the door is being worked on.
Check for wiring or plumbing. A wall with pipes in it is not a good place to put a door. Wiring can be easily detected with a cheap voltage sensor. Remove the existing door, if applicable.
If you're replacing a door with a pocket door, you'll need to get rid of the existing door. Start with removing the molding and, with a reciprocating saw blade, cut the shims. When the nails are cut, you can remove the door frame. Remove the drywall on one side of the wall.
Do this slowly to make sure you haven't missed any obstacles within the wall. Cut the exposed studs carefully. This makes room for the new framing. You may find this step easier if you use a combination of a circular saw and a small hand saw; you do not want to accidentally damage the wall you did not cut away. The goal is to leave large enough holes in the studs to allow the pocket door to pass through. A standard pocket door is 1.
To make this step even easier, look for a pocket door kit that comes with split studs. Part 2. Make a new header, if necessary. It's possible that your door will require a header of a different height. If the floor covering above the subfloor is minimal, the split-stud brackets can be secured directly to the floor. Once the appropriate length is determined, install a new stud this length from the existing stud on the opposing side. Nail the new header in place or screw and then cut and fit the soleplate to the floor.
To adjust the header, use a reciprocating saw to remove the partition header currently in place. Then, cut away the studs, just like in the above, to make space for the framing.
Cut the nails that are between the studs and the soleplate and then determine the height of your desired header before cutting the stud tops to length. Otherwise, you may end up with a frame that is not to size. Install the slider track. Your pocket door kit should contain the rails on which the door slides into the wall. Install the slider track using the directions that come with your pocket door kit, screwing the brackets into the studs.
If you are also installing pre-split studs, you can install them after you install the slider track. Most, if not all, kits come with these markers. Use a hacksaw on the channel and a handsaw on the nailers. Make sure your track is level. If it's not, it won't slide easily in and out of its pocket. Place the hardware and the door into the slider track. Make sure that the door is sliding easily and stays level.
Mount hangers on the top of the door — this is how the door will slide. Then, slide the wheeled carriages into the track. Hook the hangers onto the carriages. Once it's all set, adjust the assembly until the door hangs plumb and is in place. Part 3. Replace the drywall you removed at the beginning of the project with new drywall. For this part, you'll need panel adhesive and screws. However, don't move onto taping and mudding just yet — there's still a bit more work to be done.
Install the latch hardware. The pocket door kit should have come with door latch hardware. Some of this will be attached to the door and some will be attached to the wall. Follow the instructions that came with the pocket door kit.
Make sure the door is still sliding easily on the track and that the latches line up as needed.
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